“Wine Without Fear”: What Lies Beyond Scores and Regulations? - An Int...
Tbilisi (GBC) - Ever since the National Wine Agency of Georgia
introduced a mandatory organoleptic evaluation and a 1.5-point minimum
threshold for export certification, debate across the country’s wine
sector has renewed. From the regulator's perspective, the logic is
purely pragmatic: safeguard market integrity against low-quality or
contaminated bottles. Yet, for small-scale and artisanal
producers-particularly those devoted to experimental skin-contact,
Qvevri, and natural winemaking-a critical question emerges: could this
rigid administrative filter turn into a bureaucratic barrier?As the
domestic market adapts to these shifting rules, the global wine
community continues to debate the true purpose of evaluation scores:
are they meant to act as punitive gatekeepers, or as tools for
consumer engagement and education?To contextualize this dilemma, we
spoke with wine expert Paul Declerck, author of How to Appreciate
Wine. Raised in France’s Loire Valley among a family of winemakers,
Declerck developed his 5-point evaluation framework precisely to strip
away academic snobbery and unnecessary intimidation from wine
tasting.“When you hand someone a glass of wine, almost anyone can
tell you if they like it, but hardly anyone can explain why,”
Declerck observes. “It often comes down to aromas, texture,
viscosity, or acidity, but novice tasters lack the vocabulary to
separate those elements. The 5-point approach gives beginners a clear
structure so they know what to focus on and can assess wine purely on
its structural merits.”“Taste Is Subjective; Quality Is
Objective”One of the most persistent dogmas in the wine world is
that taste is entirely subjective. Declerck, however, draws a firm
line between personal preference and structural quality.“People
often say taste is subjective, and that’s true-broccoli will taste
very different prepared at home compared to a dish executed by a
three-star Michelin chef,” Declerck explains. “So my answer is:
yes, taste is subjective, but quality is objective. Quality represents
a standard that applies to any crafted product, and that is precisely
what we aim to measure.”This distinction carries particular
relevance for Georgian tasting panels and everyday consumers alike,
where personal bias frequently gets conflated with technical balance.
The core objective of the 5-point method is to set individual
preferences aside and focus on a wine’s structural architecture -
its balance, intensity, length, and complexity.The Qvevri Goes Global:
Universal Standards for Ancient VesselsTraditional qvevri and amphora
wines fermented on the skins, once viewed as a niche Caucasian
curiosity, have firmly integrated into the global winemaking lexicon.
Today, European producers are increasingly adopting clay vessels in
their own cellars.“You now see traditional clay amphoras and qvevri
in cellars across the globe; I’ve personally observed them in
Champagne, Burgundy, and Bordeaux,” Declerck notes. “Winemakers
often experiment with them over a few vintages before fully
committing. As we know, the wine industry evolves slowly, and adopting
new practices takes time.”From an oenological perspective, Declerck
attributes the appeal of clay vessels to their physical and chemical
dynamic: the porous nature and rounded shape of the vessel encourage
natural micro-oxygenation and convection currents, achieving naturally
what oak barrels or stainless-steel tanks require manual pumps or
lees-stirring (bâtonnage) to accomplish.Yet, as these artisanal,
high-tannin, skin-contact wines gain traction in international
markets, they raise a pressing question: how should products that defy
traditional tasting grids be evaluated?Declerck argues that an
objective evaluation framework must remain universal:“My 5-point
method is universal-it applies equally to reds, whites, rosés,
champagnes, skin-contact orange wines, light-bodied, or full-bodied
styles. It won't instantly make you a seasoned expert capable of
spotting every nuance of Qvevri aging, but it gives you a far clearer
grasp of what structural quality actually means.”For Georgian
exporters navigating Western markets, this approach is crucial. When
international consumers encounter artisanal Georgian wines, evaluation
metrics shouldn't confuse them. Instead, a universal scoring model
helps buyers recognize firm Qvevri tannins and skin-contact extraction
not as faults, but as essential structural components of quality.The
Point Trap in Wine Commerce: Lessons from Robert ParkerIn commercial
wine buying, retail chains, and sommelier networks, 100-point scales
have long dominated purchasing decisions. However, when buyers and
importers rely solely on numerical ratings, they risk misreading what
the market actually wants.“The biggest mistake trade buyers and
sommeliers make is forgetting what everyday consumers actually enjoy
drinking,” Declerck points out, pointing to the legacy of
influential critic Robert Parker.“Parker had a well-documented
preference for bold, full-bodied, high-alcohol reds. Consequently, the
region that received the highest density of 100-point scores under his
pen was California, largely because Napa Valley built its reputation
on powerful 15% ABV Cabernet Sauvignons. But does that mean every
consumer wants to drink that style? Absolutely not.”Declerck
highlights another revealing detail: throughout his career, Parker
never awarded a 100-point score to a red Burgundy-simply because
Burgundy produces lighter, more delicate, aromatic wines that didn't
align with his personal palate.Today, global consumer preferences are
shifting toward lower-alcohol, fresh, and food-friendly wines-a trend
that presents real challenges for winemakers as global climate change
drives up sugar levels and potential alcohol.“Wine buyers must stay
tuned to their customers and offer what people genuinely want to drink
that is the essence of sustainable wine commerce,” Declerck
adds.Ultimately, a score or medal cannot guarantee commercial success
if the product inside the bottle doesn't match contemporary lifestyle
preferences.Georgia’s Export Dilemma: Storytelling vs. ScoresFor
Georgian wineries targeting high-value Western markets, market
positioning remains the central hurdle. The industry has spent years
working to shift away from its historic reliance on low-cost,
high-volume exports in Eastern European markets toward premium
positioning on European and American shelves. When selling fine
artisanal Qvevri wines, producers face a tactical choice: what drives
purchase decisions more effectively - the compelling narrative of an
8,000-year-old winemaking heritage, or the reassuring logic of
numerical ratings?Declerck observes that the answer depends entirely
on the sales channel and buyer demographic:For beginners and
passionate enthusiasts, storytelling is currently the single strongest
commercial driver. That’s why wine marketers constantly urge
producers to refine their narrative-sometimes the story becomes even
more decisive than what’s in the glass.In volume retail, however,
the dynamic changes:“Supermarkets rely heavily on medals and point
stickers. When there isn't a sommelier standing by to tell the story,
a clear score remains the fastest way to build trust at the
shelf.”For Georgia’s wine sector, this demands a dual strategy. In
boutique wine bars and specialized shops, the ancient story of the
qvevri is the key to engagement. On supermarket shelves,
internationally recognized quality benchmarks provide the reassurance
foreign buyers need to make a purchase.Top-Down Regulation vs.
Bottom-Up EducationIn Georgia’s domestic market, tighter government
controls and the 1.5-point certification threshold bring a fundamental
debate to the fore: what builds long-term industry strength
better-rigid administrative enforcement, or an educated consumer base
that demands quality?In discussing this balance, Declerck contrasts
the philosophies of the “Old World” (Europe) and the “New
World” (Americas, Australasia):“In the Old World, appellation
systems like France’s AOC or Italy’s DOCG guarantee geographic
origin and set baseline production standards. Champagne is the
quintessential example: to bear the name 'Champagne,' grapes must
originate from defined zones, irrigation is prohibited, harvesting
must be done by hand, among numerous other rules. The objective is to
guarantee a baseline of quality so consumers can trust the
label.”Historically, the New World operated with far fewer
restrictions. Yet, Declerck notes that the tide is
turning:“Unregulated growth may boost market volume in the short
term as consumers figure out what they like through trial and error.
But over the long run, a total lack of standards damages credibility.
Even California is introducing stricter origin protections because
they recognize how much origin matters to buyers.”Georgia has
established its own Protected Designations of Origin (PDOs), such as
Tsinandali, Khvanchkara, and Mukuzani-though global awareness of these
appellations is still developing. The lesson for Georgia is clear:
long-term brand equity relies on transparent standards, provided
regulatory frameworks don't suffocate smaller, innovative
cellars.Overcoming Wine Intimidation: A New Era for ConsumersBeyond
administrative thresholds, export scores, and tasting grids stands the
central figure in the equation: the person holding the glass. For
decades, the wine industry’s greatest misstep was overwhelming
consumers with academic jargon and elitism rather than offering
practical, accessible tools to enjoy wine with confidence“My primary
goal is to help people stop feeling intimidated by wine and start
trusting their own senses,” Declerck concludes. “Don't assume you
lack a 'special nose' or an 'educated palate' to appreciate wine. Most
people simply haven't been shown what structural markers to pay
attention to. Wine can feel overwhelming-regions, vintages, producers,
but it doesn't have to be. Start with structure, and the rest falls
into place naturally.”Georgia’s wine sector stands at a pivotal
transition. Quality control measures and ambitious export goals will
yield lasting results only if regulatory thresholds serve as
transparent benchmarks rather than punitive barriers, allowing ancient
qvevri traditions to align seamlessly with universal quality
standards.A score should never function as a bureaucratic roadblock,
it should simply serve as a compass for the consumer.“Wine isn't
about memorizing facts or trying to impress anyone. It’s about
curiosity, pleasure, and building your own confidence-one glass at a
time.” - Paul DeclerckBy Ana Gulbatashvili, Journalist
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